Dashain

Dashain

Bamboo swing

So I got back from Pokhora a day before the festival started properly, this was planning to be my day to send my emails and do this blog, but after a few emails the power cut off and I had to leave for Bhalebas. I was spending two nights there at the request of Soren to see the festival in his village as it started a two days earlier. I had a really good time, I was really tired though from not sleeping much in Pokhora so that spoilt it bit as well. Also I really didn’t care for the slaughtering of pigs, especially as it takes nearly 15 mins to cut its throat until it dies then around three hours to cut it up and share it out to the village. It was not enjoyable. I slept through the second cutting up but had to watch the killing. I did get to see them make a swing out of grass, well almost as I went to bed while it was being but up. The rope is just made from twisted strands of grass but it is a good six inches thick and the swing frame is made from bamboo.  It looks like a normal English swing but around 20 ft high.

Me getting Tikka

I got back from the village to find the festival in full swing in Tansen all the shops are shut for a week and the internet had gone down in the town, but nobody will repair the transmitter will after the festival.

Mahen getting his Tikka

Mahen

Dashain is all about families getting together, so all of Mahendra’s relatives come to his house including his wife Rim and son Mahen. Who is an amazing little kid, he’s only two but is as tall as four year olds. The only thing that ain’t great about him is that he likes to wake me up early in the morning by standing outside my door screaming JOHNNY!!!!!! Until I let him in. That ain’t great after a late night of plenty of food and plenty of roksi and there is a lot of both in festival time. Everyday has a similar routine: visit temple around 8/9 in the morning then to relatives and friends houses for Tikka, but a bit more elaborate with extra types and layers of Tikka. There are also some rice leaves that are put behind the ear all day, in case you wonder what they are in the pictures. Then after this, around lunch time you have a few roksi’s which are not great when you’re hungry. Then eventually some food, called bose: bitten rice with pickles, veg and meat if you eat it. The meat here was from the goat they had sacrificed, it scared the hell out of me when they started to kill him, it was an awful screaming sound and I look over and they were killing the goat, I thought they had taken it to get some food. It wasn’t a swift throat cutting either, more of slow hitting on the back of the neck with a cleaver. Then the rest of the day involves card playing, eating, drinking and music until bed. Then repeat each day.  A guy who plays a Sarangi (I don’t know how to spell it), a type of Nepali violin, came to play music some nights. He used to be a really famous musician in Nepal and now keeps the old instrument and its history alive by playing and making them, he also made me one.  One night in the festival when he was teaching me to play a bit he find out I played guitar and had me get it out and play with him. I didn’t really know what I was doing as they are not really compatible instruments but it sounded OK along with a tambourine and people liked it.

Part way through the festival Mahendra’s friend Balaz came to visit for a week. He is from Hungary but has lived in Norway with his wife and son for the last seven years; also spending six years in London. He is a professional photographer so hopefully when he sends me some photos he has taken I can put some on here along with a link to his site. He is a sound guy and it was really good to have someone else from the west to talk to for a while. After a few days in Tansen he spent two days in Pipaldanda. The festival was going well there and their usual party atmosphere was enhanced by the festival. The night I spent there I was up till three, even though the music ended at 11/12ish. Mahendra was also there to give a talk on eco-tourism. His plan is to offer a holiday to people where they get the chance to trek between two villages, one being Pipaldanda, while also helping the local community by doing some teaching, heath work, building work, etc. I even had to give a speech about it before I knew what it involved. I just made vague comments that could apply to any community project, it went down well. They had even organised that some of the children came to the school so me and Balaz could teach a one class; I have to say he wasn’t too keen, I think he enjoyed it though.  I felt bad making them work when it was meant to be their holiday so we made collages out of materials that the children could find outside. I had brought glue for them this time though so we managed to stick the flowers and leaves down.

Pokhora

Pokhora

Boating on the lake

On the 16^th of October Dashian festival starts and lasts for two weeks, more on that later, so I used this free take to take a visit to Pokhora for five days before the start of festivities but while all the schools were closed. I had to get the five O’clock bus which was a treat, It was packed and they seemed to get more and more people on it at each stop. Luckily I had a seat, although it was terrible on my legs I had Joti sat next to me who is short, but tall for Nepali standards, so I managed to use some of her leg room and it wasn’t so bad, certainly better that standing because the ceiling was five foot high I could barely walk down the bus. The floor was also out of use as people were being sick on it and, after the goat got on board, full of goat droppings. The Spanish girls sat on the other side of the aisle thought it was really cut and took loads of photos, I don’t think they would have thought that if they knew it was going to be brutally killed in a few days, more on that later. So after eight hours we got to Pokhora. I went to get some more trousers as I only have two pairs and one of them got badly damaged beyond repair and some shoes, as you can only get size 9.5 in Tansen. I’m size 10. Turns out in Pokhora you can only get 9.5 too, they said maybe in Kathmandu I can get a bigger size.

At the paragliding site

I mainly went to go paragliding and boating though. Paragliding was really fun. They hustled me into paying for a hour trip even though I was only going to go for half a hour, but I was told everyone who goes for half an hour wants to go again for longer. I ended up getting the hour but half a hour would have been perfect. After about 20 mins it started to get rather repetitive with all the circling on the same place.  The last five mins was the best though because you fall to earth really quickly in tight spirals. I spent a lot of time boating on the lake, it was really relaxing. I only paid for a hour the first time but it been floating around for nearly two when I noticed the time and it took ages to get back because of the current, but the owner never noticed. The next day I got an all day ticket, only 700 compared to 300 an hour.

I never managed to get my shoes but it was a good relaxing time, which I really needed for the up-coming festival. The only downside was that I didn’t realise I had a hot shower in the hotel until the last day.

Limgha

Limgha

MCWFN recently acquired a new school in the Gulmee District in Limgha village. It is quite a distance and takes about half a day to get there. It was the first visit the charity had done to the area so there were seven of us that went, including a photographer, which is why I don’t have that many photographs as he took so many and they are being sent on a memory card to here soon.

About half the school and village

The welcome and the level of attention and care given to us was huge. Everyone in the village was there for everything. There was a small welcome ceremony when we got there, a huge one at the school the next day and a huge one when we left both lasting about almost four hours. I even had to cut a ribbon when I entered the village, you know like when someone opens a new building. It was all very fun. Also no matter where we went they had a seven piece band, complete with dancers to escort us along the pathways, with most of the children and villagers following too. That was quite strange, especially when I went for a short walk and the band started-up, I had to tell them to calm down and that I didn’t need an entourage for a walk around the village. I know it was all to make me feel welcome, I am the first person to ever visit the village who is not from Nepal. I got so many people wanting to talk to me and make sure I was OK. Especially in the food department. There was constant eating, every meal had a starter but it was more food than I would eat in entire day. Then the even bigger main course with at least one refill then desert. All very nice food though, just too much. At one point when we got there, everyone was having huge plates of different meat from a BBQ, but as I don’t eat meat I got offered a salad. I took them up on the offer right away as there is not much chance for a salad here. It turns out they only had onions, I’m not sure how much they thought I was going to eat but there was  at least 2kgs of onion on the plate. Strangely later on in the evening they gave us tomatoes, cucumber and chillies, I don’t know where all this was when I was chomping my way through most of an onion.  Shortly after the salad fiasco they found out I eat eggs, a lot of people assume that you don’t eat eggs if you don’t eat meat in Nepal. So I got an omelette which was really tasty, if a little on the large size (about five eggs based on my cooking). However, as soon as I ate it a new one appeared which I really struggled to eat, half way through that one a third arrived. I didn’t eat that one.

The national band, Pache dunga, i need to check that name though.

Due to all the partying and eating and speeches and slow walking processions, I only had two hours to teach, but I managed to get around all the classes doing just 20mins in each as all the children wanted me to visit. Hopefully, I will get another chance to go back because it was a very good school, in terms of children and teachers. The building is a bad way. Year 1 and 2 have to be taught in a nearby home due to lack of classrooms, the rest of the children have to work in classrooms so dark that from the front I could hardly see the children at the back and these are small classrooms. They started to build new classrooms but ran out of money after the foundations. I suggested just knocking a big hole in the walls, as I would definitely be better than nothing.

On the way there in our people carrier we turned a corner on the mountainside and the back axel snapped in half and a support for it shot out the back through the rear bumper. They sent another car to get us, but it just shows that the two-wheel drive cars that use for the mountain pathways are just not suitable. However, two days later the car was fixed and taking us home.

Time for a rest

Don’t forget you can donate money on the ManishaUK website that will go towards a Land Rover for the charity, which will make journeys to the villages’ easier, four-wheel drive not two-wheel, and massively cut down on transportation costs.

Pipaldanda Again

Just realised I've already written about Pipaldanda school. I won't delete it though, as it may provide different info.

Pipaldanda

The children and teachers outside the school

Pipaldanda

So I and my visit to Pipaldanda which I was informed was notorious for its poor toilet facilities: non-existent in the school, they just use some scrubland next to the school and the only proper one is a hole in the ground in a pitch black room next to a pig sty. I’ve seen worse in England at festivals though. It is a small primary school compared to others I have been to, just over 100 children. It is a very beautiful area though, unfortunately though my camera ran out of battery due to taking photos of the building work.

I’ve got to say these are some of the friendliest teachers I’ve met so far, possibly as I know the head-teacher and the English teacher rather well, as they are close friends of Mahendra. The school chairman is a great guy though, he is so happy. The village is a very close-knit community with the family group and mothers group having a large presence in the village.

They do love a good party here in Pipaldanda, I was only here two nights but the parties continued until 2 a.m. starting around 7 p.m. I had to bow out early though as I was shattered. But they are great fun; everyone is involved in the dancing and music, compared to most other villages where it seems to be a small select group.

Some of picture me and Joti (in the doorway) did, well the children did,
to liven up the room, I think it looks more sad.

Due to only being here two nights and one day was taken up with welcome ceremony, I could only teach for one day. They combined the children into two classes for me, Year 1, 2 and 3, and Years 4 and 5. To be honest though this was more of a hindrance, as the wide spread of developmental levels made pitching the teaching difficult. We did some work on expressions, animals, colours and some art, mainly drawings, to brighten up the walls. I just hope they stay up, as they were stuck to the walls with sticks jammed into the brick work. I’m taking glue next time.  

Showing off their dancing skills

Welcome to year four, climbing on the cement powder and bricks was discouraged

There has been a lot of building work here, due to ManishaUK most of which is not completed but once it is there will be a new set of classrooms, a library, new office, guest room for visitors, shops for the village, a playground and much needed toilets for the children.

Power's back

So, the power is back but I'm told not for long and as I have written the blog today on my laptop I'll post what I have been up to but photos will have to wait a week, unfortunately.
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internet

well it has been a while, mainly due to the festival and every thing being closed. Then the internet for the town went down and has not been repaired until today. But I just got into an internet cafe now and there is a power cut so I have ten mins.
Basically, anyone who has emailed me, I will get back to them in a week after I get back to Tansen from the village. I afraid that the blog will have to wait till then too, along with me update to ManishaUK about the school. Unless the power comes back on in the next two hours.

Motorbike

Motorbike

At some point during the time coved with this update, I have gotten my motorbike and am now free to ride where I want. I am a little concerned at my lack of lessons but there seems to be no real difficulty in driving it or in traversing the busy road, so long as I go slowly. Also every here seems to be very confident in my ability to drive it. It is a 2005 Yamaha Fazer, although that means nothing to me; however, the guy in the Yamaha garage who serviced it for me said that it was a very good bike. Like I said it has been fully serviced by the proper garage, so I can assure anyone that it is perfectly safe.

Pipaldanda

Pipaldanda

The staff and children

 

It took a long time to reach Pipaldanda from Jekhsang, mainly due to the slow going on the mountain roads. We had also picked up a large group of people from the three of us before, me Joti and Soren we were joined my 6 others, including Mahendra who was there to see the progress of the building work. I was met with the tikka and festooned with garlands, twice up the point when I could not see they were pilled so high. He then had a lengthy welcome ceremony that lasted from early afternoon until 1am at which point I was shattered and when to bed.

The next day I got to do the twinning programme and teach four classes. It is a very small primary school so class 1, 2 and 3, and class 4 and 5 were combined; therefore, I got to teach everyone at least twice. The day ended with another celebratory programme which continued until about 2am this time. During this time I was coerced into learning a Nepali song, I have no qualms about this, but I was not to keen at having to sing it several times unaccompanied to the entire village. However, they clearly enjoyed it, especially the children so it was all good in the end.

The next day we had to leave at 10 so I was unable to do any teaching, but am looking forward to going back. Although hopefully the parties may end a little earlier next time 6am-2am is too long of a day for me, especially when there is teaching to be done.

Until the top floor is finished there is only three classrooms for the five classes

The school has been majorly re-constructed, as can be seen in the photographs. Now that is it the end of the monsoon season progress should advance quickly and by my next visit there should be a considerable improvement, as the school is in a poor state at the moment. 

The playground has unfortunately been overrun by building work

Jekhsang

Jekhsang

After Amrit we travelled to Jekhsang where I met up with Joti again. Jekhsang is a lower secondary school but on a bigger scale to Bhalebas. I only spent a little of my time teaching in the school here, the teachers seemed somewhat elusive to when I could teach so I only managed a few lessons during my time here. Mainly due to waiting around as things seemed to be delayed a lot. Hopefully, on my next visit I will get more chance to teach. I managed to teach in every class though, doing some games with colour, expressions, and, of course, the twinning programme. I feel I should say a quick word on that, as I feel I have forgotten so far. I won’t go into a detailed explanation as I am sure most people know what it involved: the correspondence of letter between a school in England and a school elsewhere, in this case, obviously, Nepal. As I am re-staring, or in most cases starting, the programme here in Nepal, the lessons I have been conducting have consisted on an introduction to the concept and the creation of an introductory letter from the children in Nepal to the English schools. These letters contain a brief introduction from the children about themselves, the school and the village. I’ve left the content of the letters pretty much up to the children by asking them what they would like to tell the children in England, obviously I did some subtly hinting to start them off. After my three days in Jekhsang I headed to Pipaldanda.